My Pinhoti Journal and related observations
By
John McFee
What was I thinkin ...
Sometime in late January:
“Well I’m not really sure exactly when I decided to do this. It was definitely sometime in January (since that’s my section heading). I remember Jenny talking about spending some time with her mom during Spring Break ... Aly was going to be on a cruise with mom, and Em was going to be in Colorado ... and I just thought it sounded like it would be a great week to thru-hike the Pinhoti Trail. Since that epiphany I have looked up things on the Internet and read a lot. I started thinking about gear, timing, etc. So I guess this is where I’ll start the journal.
HEADING OUT... finally
25 March 2001 - sunday
“Well the kids are all shipped out. Jenny and I went to church and then headed to Piedmont to drop off the truck at the northern end. The trip was fairly uneventful until we got there and drove past the parking lot and had to go back. After we dropped the truck we took the scenic route to Talladega which approximately paralleled my course. Jenny enjoyed seeing the country I would be hiking through and also the various road crossings for the Pinhoti. Well we finally managed to find the southern terminus and headed to the B&B. The Somerset House is a great place to stay and Jen and I had a wonderful evening.
It Begins ...
26 March 2001 - Monday
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“After a great breakfast at the B&B Jenny drove me to the trailhead. After a picture and good-byes I was finally on the trail at 7:30AM. |
“Fires out and I’m in my tent. I have the fly up and the door open ... the stars are beautiful. It’s really cold though - going down into the 20s I think. I’m warm everywhere but my hands. I feel pretty good now ... today was TOUGH. I think I got in about 20. I came across this campsite before I was at the intersection and it’s real nice - level, water, and a fire ring. Porter Gap to Chandler springs was pretty easy. From there to Clairmont Gap was pretty easy too. There were some rocks, but I ended up doing about 3mph. Well all good things must come to an end I guess. From Chandler Gap to Adams Gap was tough ... lots of rocks. From Adams Gap to here was OK for the first 2-3 miles then you start going through huge rocks straight up the freakin mountain. Saw some pretty wildflowers, butterflies, lizards, and a couple of Pileated Woodpeckers. My right calf is crampy and sore, but everything else seems OK (ankles were twisted more than I thought). Hopefully this was the toughest day (Ha) Even though it was hard it was gorgeous. Beautiful sunny blue skies, cool though, I never took off my Polartec. The first time I tried to use the GPS it wouldn’t work, but I was able to call Jenny tonight ... that was great. Well I think I’ll look at what I have for tomorrow and read some of God’s word before I crash.
(For some reason I didn’t note this, but the only other backpacker I saw today was a young lady named Laura from South Carolina. She seemed frightened, terribly unprepared, and poorly equipped ... I just hope and pray she made it OK)
Day1 19.8 miles - Parking Area on 77 (Southern Terminus) to Camp1 (.8 miles short of the Chinabee/Pinhoti Intersection)
GPS Data: Camp1 Elevation 2040 Map 4
N 33 24’ 57.7”
W 85 50’ 17.4”
Good campsite, level, water, and fire-ring
Miles to date: 19.8
27 March 2001 - Tuesday
“I never saw Morgan Lake ?! I’m camping somewhere around FS515, actually uphill from it (wrong) Ended up going a mile (not quite) past the elusive Morgan Lake. Couldn’t cook ... too much pine straw. I hope the shelter is nice tomorrow, at least I cut my distance for tomorrow down. The coyotes are crazy - hope they’re hunting deer. Saw two turkeys today. I feel pretty good... hope I sleep better tonight. It seems a little warmer ... I froze last night. I am on a slope, but it is really soft. The hike to Blue Mountain Shelter was tough, but from there on it was pretty easy. I am now in new territory and am looking forward to tomorrow.
(While I was talking to Jenny I noticed headlights and someone walking with a flashlight on the hill above me)
Day 2: 19.9 miles - Camp1 (.8 miles short of the Chinabee/Pinhoti Intersection) to Camp2 (1.4 miles past 24)
GPS Data: Camp2 Elevation 995’ Map 3
N 33 34’ 8.1”
W 85 42’ 42.1”
Poor campsite. There is a nice waterfall about a quarter mile from here with the possibility of a campsite
Miles to date: 39.7
28 March 2001 - Wednesday
8:06PM
“Well the shelter is real nice, but it doesn’t have heat and this looks like another cold one. Wish I had a thermometer. Did I mention that I saw two turkey yesterday? Well I did, and I saw one turkey hunter this morning. (He was a really nice guy from North Carolina ... don’t remember his name though) The only other people I saw were a couple dayhiking up from the trailhead at FS500. Well this was a tough day (more mental than physical) My legs are much sorer than I ever thought they would be. Hopefully the 18 tomorrow will be better and I will find a good campsite. I’m stopping at 4:30PM at the latest. I didn’t get in here till 5:30PM and I really had to hump the last 8 miles to do that. My legs are killing me - just muscle soreness. Thank God for Ibuprofen. This is the first night that I haven’t been able to call Jenny. That reminds me. The turkey hunter I saw today was the source of the headlights and flashlight last night - nice guy. The place I camped last night was so crappy that I ate a cold breakfast and decided to walk a while today before cooking something. I ended up at a nice waterfall. I took a picture,
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should have recorded a waypoint because it would be nice place to camp (probably about 3/8 mile from camp, cooked last nights skipped supper for breakfast) Uneventful day - really kind of boring scenery wise - it was a real mental day - physically I felt pretty good after a couple of miles, but I just couldn’t seem to get going. There was a neat journal in the shelter - I read every entry, and added my own. The shelter is great, I’m glad I pushed to get here. I’m sitting with my back against the wall like I’m in a chair-it’s great. Did I mention it’s still COLD! Well I guess I’ll go shiver the night away-really hope I sleep better tonight. |
Day 3: 20.4 miles - Camp2 (1.4 miles past 24) to Lower Shoal Shelter
GPS Data: Lower Shoal Shelter Elevation 1129’ Map 3
N 33 41’ 8.3”
W 85 37’ 26.4”
Great shelter, didn’t get there till almost dark and I was really glad to see it
Miles to date: 60.1
29 March 2001 - Thursday
1:00PM
“I am at the Laurel Trail Shelter. I’ve gone 8.8 miles. I’m thinking about staying, although the sky may be clearing. I am having lunch and a cup of coffee. I’M SOAKED! If I stay it will leave 35 miles or 17.5 a day for the next two days - not bad if the rain stops. Wish I could call Jen and see what the weather is supposed to be. I go back up tomorrow, it might not be a bad idea to rest today-my legs could use it.
3:00PM
“Well the rain has stopped and the sun is peaking out. I think I did the right thing because the wind (it was cold too) is picking up and if I was soaked hypothermia could have been just around the corner. I’m going to start early tomorrow, probably 6AM (didn’t get out till 6:45). Hopefully I can gain back most of the six I lost today and get in 20 before making camp.
6:20PM
“All things considered this was probably my most enjoyable day on the trail. I feel rested and am enjoying a nice fire. I miss Jenny and wish I could call. The day was pretty uneventful except for the rain and the guy I saw in a drysuit swimming around looking for muscles in the creek at Pine Glen Rec Area.
Praise God for a great day!
(From Lower Shoal Shelter to Pine Glen the trail was gently rolling ... nothing challenging. Pine Glen was closed, and I was really hoping for a place to get out of the weather. From Pine Glen to Sweetwater Lake the trail was basically flat following Shoal Creek. Sweetwater Lake is pretty, as are the other lakes. Even though they are man made they remind me of the lakes in Canada that John and I canoed on our Boundary water trip. From Sweetwater it was pretty much downhill to the shelter)
Day 4: 8.8 miles - Lower Shoal Shelter to Laurel Trail Shelter
GPS Data: Laurel Trail Shelter Elevation 1182’ Map 2
N 33 45’ 38.7”
W 85 34’ 45.1”
Nice shelter, especially since it got me out of the rain.
Miles to date: 68.9
30 March 2001 - Friday
“Ended up making camp about .5 miles from FS500, that makes today 18.6 and tomorrow will be 16.4 miles. Today was a good day, but being in the tent tonight I realize how much I stink. Couldn’t call Jen from camp, but I was able to leave her a message from the top of Dugger Mountain. Good hiking today, saw a couple of hippies at Choccolocco Watershed(and lots of empty, apparently abandoned tents) - they had like a tent commune - said they were part of the “Rainbow Gathering” whatever that is. Hope it doesn’t rain much tonight. Well guess I’ll go I’m tired.
(Hiking today was pretty easy for the first 11.5 miles until I crossed County Road 55 which is when I preceded to go up and over Dugger Mtn, the second highest in the state I think. I camped at the bottom/North end of Dugger Mtn. )
Dugger Mountain
Day 5: 18.5 miles - Laurel Trail Shelter to Camp 5 (Bottom of Dugger Mtn, .6 miles before FS500)
GPS Data: Camp 5 Elevation 1002’ Map 1
N 33 52’ 42.2”
W 85 33’ 39.5”
Nice campsite, fire ring, water. Might not be the best place to camp if you were expecting really heavy rain.
Miles to date: 87.4
31 March 2001 - saturday
Actually wrote this on Sunday morning ... but what the heck
“Today I went from about 1/4 mile east of FS500 to the Northern Terminus of the Pinhoti. Going up the first little hill (one of about 4 major climbs today) past FS500 a dog snuck up on me and followed me until near the top (close to where the trail crossed a jeep trail) where he started acting weird and flushed a bunch of turkeys (and then he ran off?). They (the turkeys) had really been working the trail, I think I will hunt there sometime. From there it was up and down. Fog and clouds totally obscured my view from the Augusta Mine Ridge. I got to my truck about 4:00PM.
Day 6: 16.5 miles - Camp 5 to Truck (Parking lot at Northern terminus on 278)
Miles to date: 103.9
Final Observations and associated Meditations
Great trip - well worth all the time and effort it took to get ready, and to do it. I’ll never forget it, and can’t wait to start planning where I’ll go next year
More physically demanding than I had anticipated
NEEDED MORE STRENGTH TRAINING FOR LEGS!
My average pace was probably less than the 3mph I had hoped for which lead to a lot of anxiety, because it always took longer to get where I was going than I had planned
Plan for colder/hotter weather than expected
Should have taken better care of my feet (although they weren’t that bad)
Ideal pack weight is 1/5 body weight and max is 1/3 body weight. At 170 my 48 # pack was a little over 1/4 body weight - still a little heavier than I had hoped
See gear list for observations on food and clothing department.
Gear List
ITEM
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Manufacturer/Style |
Comments |
Wgt(lb) |
STUFF |
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Pack |
North Face Spectrum 5200 cc |
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Raincover |
Dana |
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Tent |
North Face Canyonlands 2000 |
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Groundcloth/fly (actually 2? ponchos) |
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Used a couple of ponchos … will look for something lighter; needed something to sit on |
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Extra stakes (for fly)/line |
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Used em |
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Sleeping bag |
Woods City Light 25 degree (Ha) |
Could have used my zero degree bag |
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pad |
Thermarest Ultralight ¾ length |
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pillow |
Thermarest |
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Stove (full)/matches/lighter |
Peak I Multifuel |
Worked well, as usual. Probably need to get a repair kit. |
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Fuel Bottle (full) |
MSR 22oz |
Could have gotten by easily with extra 11oz of fuel … will get an 11 oz MSR bottle |
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.9 Liter Pot |
Evernew Titanium |
Perfect size to boil up full pot and pour off mug full for coffee before starting meal |
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Mug |
Evernew Titanium |
Nice |
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Water Bottle (full) |
1 liter Nalgene and 1 liter platypus with hydration tube |
Hydration tube really kept me drinking water |
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Water filter |
Pur Hiker Microfilter |
Performed admirably |
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Emergency purifier tabs |
Potable Aqua Tablets |
Not used |
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First Aid Kit |
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Needed more moleskin, forget the Ace bandage |
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Multi-tool |
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Never used it |
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ITEM
|
Manufacturer/Style |
Comments |
Wgt(lb) |
|
Trowel/paper/Baby wipes |
Eastman Outdoors Little John/single use antibacterial babywipes/ extra roll |
Could have gotten by with the single roll in the trowel handle |
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Flashlight/headband |
CMG Equipment Infinity Task Light (Amber)/ Jackstrap |
Also took empty mini-mag, didn’t use it. Light and headband were very handy |
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Rain Gear |
Campmor |
Rain pants made good camp pants |
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Phone/extra battery |
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My wife made me … didn’t need the extra battery though |
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GPS |
Garmin eTrex |
Unnecessary, but it was fun knowing exactly where I was |
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Compass |
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Necessary, but not used |
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3 extra batteries |
Lithium |
Didn’t need them |
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Towel |
Half a pack towel |
Came in handy on the rainy day |
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CLOTHES |
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Shorts |
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Wore only in camp |
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Pants (zip off legs) |
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Underwear (2) |
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Should have taken both pair of Duofold |
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Socks (2) |
Wigwam Merino Rugged Wool Hiker |
Nice – maybe a little heavy |
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Sockliners (2 pair) |
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Long Sleeve Coolmax (2) |
RoadRunner Sports |
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Sleeveless Coolmax |
RoadRunner Sports |
Probably didn’t need this, but wore it as an extra layer when really cold |
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Polartec Pullover |
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Indispensable |
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Warm Cap |
Nike ThermaFit |
Most useful piece of clothing I took |
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Gloves |
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Nike Running |
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ITEM
|
Manufacturer/Style |
Comments |
Wgt |
Water Shoes |
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Used as camp shoes |
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Water Proof Hat |
InSport |
Never used |
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FOOD |
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5 Dehydrated Suppers |
PackLite Foods |
These were great “Meals With Wheels” and “Past Primavera” were the best, but they were all good |
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1 Liter Oatmeal/raisins/nuts/Brown sugar |
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I hate Oatmeal … I’m going to take elbow macaroni from now on 1 Cup dry makes 2 cups pasta has about 420 calories and with some butter and salt |
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Bagels (6) |
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Loved em |
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Wasa / cheese spread |
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Blaaaaah … sucked the cheese out of the packets and threw away the Wasa |
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Cliff Bars (6) |
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Awesome … ate these around 2PM and they would really power me through the rest of the day |
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2 Tubes Peanut Butter |
Coghlan’s Refillable Squeeze Tubes |
Ate it all … worth the weight |
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